Bryan has no regrets selling up an award winning restaurant and moving to a pub. "If you are enjoying (cooking) more, it doesn't matter where you are," he says.
Bakewell DE45 1EP
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But despite being showered with awards Bryan and Sarah were not, deep down, truly happy. A posh restaurant wasn't really them. What he really wanted, Bryan told the Guardian's restaurant reviewer who rated his meal 9 out of 10, was "a handsome pub."
Thought so. Fancy a Jaffa cake? You will if you order one at Bryan and Sarah Moran's new gaffe at The Manners, Bakewell.
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I'd begun with calamari (6.50) which was, frankly, a disappointment.
Judging by what we ate, his first best pub award won't be long coming.
And that's what they've got.
With a blue and white dcor, big room (and a little snug), banquettes, cutlery in Golden Syrup tins and a cool but not too loud music background it has the feel of a city pub, although few will have a large beer garden out back.
"I don't expect they get much walk by trade but it's certainly a walk to place," says my wife approvingly, reflecting on our meal. Bryan agrees. "The beauty of Bakewell is we benefit from word of mouth recommendations."
I'm not the only one with a dodgy memory. "People tell me they loved it at the restaurant but I never cooked it there. I'd had enough of it."
The mains run from fish and chips and bangers and mash to a pie, scampi, venison haunch and risotto but I go for the revival of the sweet and sour duck dish he did at Aitch's. When it comes I don't recall the presentation. "It's the same, I haven't changed a thing," maintains Bryan.
It may not be the kind of food you get in a posh restaurant but it is the kind of food you get if you put a chef who's run a posh restaurant into a pub.
amble this far to peer at the menu stuck up in the window.
My wife's calves liver (13) was two good slices with a couple of rashers of excellent bacon on a spring onion mash in an ocean of deep rich gravy. Mains start from 9.
It comes in a little Kilner jar with a layer of sponge at the bottom, then some wobbly orange jelly topped off with a very chocolatey mousse with crunchy little sugar sprinkles. There's more chocolate, as ice cream, on the side.
The Manners, a Robinson's pub on Haddon Road, had a reputation as a drinkers' pub not known for its food. It's been scrubbed up since the couple moved in. They run it with colleague Ben Clowes.
If you don't, go for the sticky toffee pudding, a Air Max Thea White Womens
People remember him from the kitchen at John Hattersley's now deceased Aitch's wine bar across the town.
Many of the rings, coated in a light, crispy batter, were rubbery but the sweet chilli dip was gutsy and individual. Your average pub would have opened a jar: Brian made this himself.
A duck breast is roasted, the flesh pulled and reformed into a cricket ball wrapped in its crispy skin and rolled in crunchy sesame seeds.
The man in the Original Farmers Market Shop in town read about it in his inflight magazine en route to Bulgaria.
She'd started with the smoked haddock rarebit (6.50), the fish coated with cheese and grilled for a vivid contrast in flavour, offset by a perky tomato salad dressed in a lemony oil.
We paid 53 for food.
It sits in a pool of sweet sour sauce sufficiently gloopy to recall happy days at your favourite Chinese takeaway yet intense enough to be taken seriously. Boiled rice and stir fried vegetables are served separately. At 16 it's one of the more expensive dishes but it will hit you for Nike Air Max 2015 Mens Cheap six.
We loved it but not everyone does. "One former customer from Sheffield walked in, said 'This is not a restaurant,' and walked back out," says Bryan.
cube of which is so light it wobbles when you touch the dish. If this isn't close to perfection I don't know what is.
And old customers are coming from Sheffield where the couple ran their eponymous restaurant, Moran's, on Abbeydale Road South until last year, rated the best in the city by the Good Food Guide.
It's not quite what you might expect from a sturdy looking pub just off the centre of Bakewell. In fact if you Nike Air Max Thea Sale Cheap
They sold the Sheffield restaurant without knowing what they would do next. Then the pub became available. They both knew it: John, who is Irish, from his time in the town, and Sarah because she is a Bakewell girl.
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